| HOW
TO DIAGNOSE YOUR FISH HEALTH
Fishes normally
tell you that they are under stress, or that something is wrong with the
water - like the pH is out so that you can check if your filter is choked.
If your
pH is very low, your discus becomes very light in colour. If your water
is too alkaline, it becomes very dark. So when your fishes suddenly looses
its colour or becomes very dark, something is wrong with your tank.
Their eyes turning white or hazy, loss of appetite, nervousness, etc, are
signs that something is wroung with your tank. Although they
cannot speak, they do "communicate" with us.
Fishes show
symptoms of sickness prior to actually getting sick. So if you solve these
problems before they get too serious, you will not have to worry about
diseases.
The telltale
signs or Symptoms Of Imminent Problems: (this true for almost all the fishes)
| Eyes have a white shade |
Check pH, pH is probably
on the extreme. |
| Fins clamped or closed |
Check water condition
& temperature |
| Fishes looses colour |
Insufficient sunlight. |
| Tails & Fins have
a jagged edge |
Water too hard or alkaline,
check activated carbon |
| Tails & Fin "blood-shot"
esp. Goldfishes |
Water condition is not
in balance, too much salt and water maybe too hard |
| Excretion Floats - air
trap in excretion |
Constipation |
| Excretion hanging from
the fish |
Constipation |
| Fishes become timid,
jumpy & nervous suddenly, hiding in the corner all the time |
Water too hard or alkaline,
too much salt, not enough hiding place, or bullied by others |
| Yellow residue at the
water level |
Water too hard, remove
crush corals/shells |
| Fishes becoming very
slimy |
Too much salt or chemicals
used |
| Fishes float at 30°
along surface of water |
Chlorine attack, or gills
injured by chemicals or internal parasite |
| Suddenly refuses to eat |
Sudden drop in pH, or
temperature |
| Water have a smell |
Check filter and replace
activated carbon or zeolite |
| Body have spots, or blotches |
Check filter, pH and
replace activated carbon or zeolite. Too much salt may have been used;
or attacked by other fishes |
| Fishes rocks its body
without moving |
Check temperature. Make
sure you have a constant water temperature. |
COMMON FISH DISEASES
| Tail & Fin Rot |
 |
 |
|
The tail & fins rots
away. The edges are jagged like its been bitted by something. In serious
cases, the fins and tail are torn or split opened.
If the medication applied
is effective, a black outline can be seen along the torn fins. |
| White spot |
 |
|
Fish body is covered
with white pepper-like specks. Very common when temperature drops. This
is as common as our common cold. Keep your water temperature constant. |
| Mouth Fungus |
 |
|
White growth on the mouth.
Much like wearing white lipstick but worse as cotton-like growth can sometimes
be seen from the wound. |
| Fish Lice & Anchor
Worms
(not a disease)
|
   |
|
Usually they are introduced
into the tank with live foods or plants. Although copper is the main ingredient
used in treatment, you can also physically pulled them out with tweezers,
and dap the wounds with "RID-ALL" Anti-Fungus. |
| Fungus |
 |
|
The white cotton-like
growth is Not part of the fish fin. It is a secondary fungus infection
normally due from injuries like fighting, or rough handling. |
| Pop Eye |
 |
|
Eyes swell out from its
normal place and looks like it is about to pop out. |
| Swim Bladder Disease |
The fish either floats
at the water surface or sinks to the bottom when not in motion. |
| Dropsy |
Abdominal area swells
up and sometimes the scales protrude out. There is no known effective cure. |
| Hydra (pest) |
 |
|
This is a pest that may
be introduced when you feed live foods. They are a danger to young frys
only and post no threat to adult fishes. Click picture on the left for
more information. |
|
|
PREVENTIVE
MEDICINE
|
|
"An ounce of prevention is worth
a pound of cure"
|
-
Have a proper filtering
system
-
Change Water Regularly (30-40%)
-
Have a correct mixture of
fishes
-
Proper feeding
-
Proper lighting
-
Removing all dead animals,
plants and excess food immediately.
-
Air bubbles should not be
too fine
-
Always keep a bottle of
the following handy incase of emergency
-
RID-ALL GENERAL AID
-
RID-ALL ANTI-FUNGUS
-
RID-ALL ANTI-CHLORINE
-
Make sure it is "RID-ALL"
so that you can continue to get this free service.
|
COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS & PROBLEMS
| 1. |
Air pump - does not force
air into the water. Cause circulation only - important to get wide surface
area. Fighting fish, gouramis, paradise fishes, etc. are exception as they
breathe through the air directly. |
| 2. |
Bubbles should not be
so strong that fishes have problem swimming. |
| 3. |
Do not have too fine
air bubbles floating in the tank. Known to give rise to "POP-EYE" problems
in goldfishes. |
| 4. |
In a marine tank, the
air bubbles are finer and wooden wood diffusers can work. In freshwater,
the diffusers cannot work and the same air stone will give bigger bubbles.
(Density of water is different) |
| 5. |
Using the gang value
properly - one valve MUST be open to the maximum to all excess air to escape. |
| 6. |
Before buying air stones
- rub the stones - sand must not come off readily. |
| 7. |
Do not waste money on
living bacteria sold in a liquid form - short shelf life - use powdered
form if necessary. No need to use at all. |
| 8. |
Vitamins must be consumed
for effectiveness, just dropping into the water have very little effect |
| 9. |
Big fish will eat small
fish (Rule of Nature) - Do not mix very different sizes together. |
| 10. |
Salt does not evaporate
only water will. When changing water DO NOT use salt. It does not remove
chlorine. |
| 11. |
Activated Carbon should
be placed where there is a strong flow of water through it - like in a
filter media. Throwing it into the tank alone will not be effective. |
| 12. |
Overfeeding kills. Decaying
excess food causes change to pH, ammonia, nitrate levels, etc. |
| 13. |
Overnight water refers
to water without chlorine content. |
| 14. |
Hardwater refers to water
with a great deal of dissolved minerals, the pH is mostly high. |
| 15. |
Excretion floating along
the water surface is a sign that your fish have constipation. This is clearly
seen in bigger fishes like goldfish and Kois as air bubbles can be seen
within the sag |
| 16. |
Marine sand, crushed
corals, and white sand (marble chips) should NOT be used in a freshwater
tank. Overtime, the carbonates will dissolve in the water affecting your
pH and hardness. Yellow residue at the water surface is a symptom that
your water is getting "harder". |
| 17. |
Use of a Heater is to
prevent temperature fluctuations and not to “cook” your fishes. |
| 18. |
Try not to mix hardwater
fishes with softwater fishes, as the water chemistry is different and will
be quite difficult to keep both species alive together. It is not impossible,
just difficult. One species will do better than the other. |
| 19. |
Terrapins require sunlight
for their shell to grow properly (harden). Even fishes exposed to natural
sunlight have better colours. |
| 20. |
Avoid using antibiotics
unless you know what you are doing. Avoid all chemicals that destroy the
'good' bacteria if you are using biological filtration. |
| 21. |
If your fishes are very
slimy, chances are that you have used too much salt, or the pH of your
water has become too acidic or too alkaline. |
| 22. |
If you have a community
tank, have an algae eater, some freshwater shrimps or even freshwater crabs
(small ones) to help keep the tank clean. Dead or dying fishes can and
will be consumed by the scavengers |
| 23. |
Decide on the fish you
intent to keep before you decide on the tank size or the decorations. |
| 24. |
Get a good reference
Book. So you can check the basic water, temperature and special requirements
for your fishes and plants. |
Please visit our Tips
and FAQ
for more information.
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