HOW TO DIAGNOSE YOUR FISH HEALTH 

Fishes normally tell you that they are under stress, or that something is wrong with the water - like the pH is out so that you can check if your filter is choked.
If your pH is very low, your discus becomes very light in colour. If your water is too alkaline, it becomes very dark. So when your fishes suddenly looses its colour or becomes very dark, something is wrong with your tank.  Their eyes turning white or hazy, loss of appetite, nervousness, etc, are signs that something is wroung with your tank.   Although they cannot speak, they do "communicate" with us.

Fishes show symptoms of sickness prior to actually getting sick. So if you solve these problems before they get too serious, you will not have to worry about diseases.

The telltale signs or Symptoms Of Imminent Problems: (this true for almost all the fishes)
Eyes have a white shade Check pH, pH is probably on the extreme.
Fins clamped or closed Check water condition & temperature
Fishes looses colour Insufficient sunlight.
Tails & Fins have a jagged edge  Water too hard or alkaline, check activated carbon
Tails & Fin "blood-shot" esp. Goldfishes Water condition is not in balance, too much salt and water maybe too hard
Excretion Floats - air trap in excretion Constipation
Excretion hanging from the fish Constipation
Fishes become timid, jumpy & nervous suddenly, hiding in the corner all the time Water too hard or alkaline, too much salt, not enough hiding place, or bullied by others
Yellow residue at the water level Water too hard, remove crush corals/shells
Fishes becoming very slimy Too much salt or chemicals used
Fishes float at 30° along surface of water Chlorine attack, or gills injured by chemicals or internal parasite
Suddenly refuses to eat Sudden drop in pH, or temperature
Water have a smell Check filter and replace activated carbon or zeolite
Body have spots, or blotches Check filter, pH and replace activated carbon or zeolite. Too much salt may have been used; or attacked by other fishes
Fishes rocks its body without moving Check temperature. Make sure you have a constant water temperature.

COMMON FISH DISEASES 
Tail & Fin Rot 
The tail & fins rots away. The edges are jagged like its been bitted by something. In serious cases, the fins and tail are torn or split opened. 
If the medication applied is effective, a black outline can be seen along the torn fins.
White spot 
Fish body is covered with white pepper-like specks. Very common when temperature drops. This is as common as our common cold. Keep your water temperature constant. 
Mouth Fungus 
White growth on the mouth. Much like wearing white lipstick but worse as cotton-like growth can sometimes be seen from the wound.
Fish Lice & Anchor Worms
(not a disease)
Usually they are introduced into the tank with live foods or plants. Although copper is the main ingredient used in treatment, you can also physically pulled them out with tweezers, and dap the wounds with "RID-ALL" Anti-Fungus.
Fungus
The white cotton-like growth is Not part of the fish fin. It is a secondary fungus infection normally due from injuries like fighting, or rough handling.
Pop Eye
Eyes swell out from its normal place and looks like it is about to pop out.
Swim Bladder Disease The fish either floats at the water surface or sinks to the bottom when not in motion. 
Dropsy  Abdominal area swells up and sometimes the scales protrude out. There is no known effective cure.
Hydra (pest)
This is a pest that may be introduced when you feed live foods. They are a danger to young frys only and post no threat to adult fishes. Click picture on the left for more information.


PREVENTIVE MEDICINE
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
  • Have a proper filtering system  
  • Change Water Regularly (30-40%)  
  • Have a correct mixture of fishes  
  • Proper feeding  
  • Proper lighting  
  • Removing all dead animals, plants and excess food immediately. 
  • Air bubbles should not be too fine 
  • Always keep a bottle of the following handy incase of emergency 
    • RID-ALL GENERAL AID 
    • RID-ALL ANTI-FUNGUS 
    • RID-ALL ANTI-CHLORINE 
    • Make sure it is "RID-ALL" so that you can continue to get this free service. 



COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS & PROBLEMS
1. Air pump - does not force air into the water. Cause circulation only - important to get wide surface area. Fighting fish, gouramis, paradise fishes, etc. are exception as they breathe through the air directly.
2. Bubbles should not be so strong that fishes have problem swimming.
3. Do not have too fine air bubbles floating in the tank. Known to give rise to "POP-EYE" problems in goldfishes.
4. In a marine tank, the air bubbles are finer and wooden wood diffusers can work. In freshwater, the diffusers cannot work and the same air stone will give bigger bubbles. (Density of water is different)
5. Using the gang value properly - one valve MUST be open to the maximum to all excess air to escape.
6. Before buying air stones - rub the stones - sand must not come off readily. 
7. Do not waste money on living bacteria sold in a liquid form - short shelf life - use powdered form if necessary. No need to use at all.
8. Vitamins must be consumed for effectiveness, just dropping into the water have very little effect
9. Big fish will eat small fish (Rule of Nature) - Do not mix very different sizes together.
10. Salt does not evaporate only water will. When changing water DO NOT use salt. It does not remove chlorine.
11. Activated Carbon should be placed where there is a strong flow of water through it - like in a filter media. Throwing it into the tank alone will not be effective.
12. Overfeeding kills. Decaying excess food causes change to pH, ammonia, nitrate levels, etc.
13. Overnight water refers to water without chlorine content.
14. Hardwater refers to water with a great deal of dissolved minerals, the pH is mostly high.
15. Excretion floating along the water surface is a sign that your fish have constipation. This is clearly seen in bigger fishes like goldfish and Kois as air bubbles can be seen within the sag
16. Marine sand, crushed corals, and white sand (marble chips) should NOT be used in a freshwater tank. Overtime, the carbonates will dissolve in the water affecting your pH and hardness. Yellow residue at the water surface is a symptom that your water is getting "harder". 
17. Use of a Heater is to prevent temperature fluctuations and not to “cook” your fishes.
18. Try not to mix hardwater fishes with softwater fishes, as the water chemistry is different and will be quite difficult to keep both species alive together. It is not impossible, just difficult. One species will do better than the other.
19. Terrapins require sunlight for their shell to grow properly (harden). Even fishes exposed to natural sunlight have better colours.
20. Avoid using antibiotics unless you know what you are doing. Avoid all chemicals that destroy the 'good' bacteria if you are using biological filtration.
21. If your fishes are very slimy, chances are that you have used too much salt, or the pH of your water has become too acidic or too alkaline. 
22. If you have a community tank, have an algae eater, some freshwater shrimps or even freshwater crabs (small ones) to help keep the tank clean. Dead or dying fishes can and will be consumed by the scavengers
23. Decide on the fish you intent to keep before you decide on the tank size or the decorations.
24. Get a good reference Book. So you can check the basic water, temperature and special requirements for your fishes and plants.

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